Chemical Peels: What They are & How to Use
What are they?
A chemical peel is a cosmetic treatment where they use an acidic solution on your face, and it penetrates through the skin barrier, shedding dead skin cells and regenerating skin. The name is a bit scary, but these are game changers for your skin. There are many different kinds of chemical peels, ranging from superficial to deep.
How do they work?
These peels work by penetrating through the skin and causing a “controlled injury” type mechanism. It’ll signal a healing response in the skin that causes regeneration and rejuvenation.
Frosting 🧁 ❄️
After applying a chemical peel, your skin is usually left with some temporary whitening, due to the denaturing proteins. This is a clear indicator of how deep the chemical peel is affecting the skin. There are varying degrees of frosting. The stronger/deeper the peel, the whiter the skin will be. This effect differs for everyone.
Frosting levels ❄️
Level 1
Superficial peels can make your face slightly white/patchy.
Level 2
A medium depth peel will cause a more frosted, chalky, white look.
Level 3
A deep peel displays as a thick white or greyish white.
Important PSAs
List of least to most severe peels ⬇️
Superficial, medial, deep
Superficial aka “lunchtime” peels
These peels are on the gentler side, and penetrate the epidermis.
Common key ingredients:
-Glycolic acid 30-50%
This is an AHA (alpha hydroxy acid), and it’s the one with the smallest particle size, so it penetrates your epidermis the quickest/easiest. GAs acidic nature weakens the desmosomes between dead skin cells, causing desquamation and cell turnover. The more acidic its ph is, the more intense its effects are. A balance of 3.5-4.0 is recommended for a GA lunchtime peel.
-Salicylic acid 20-30%
This is a BHA (beta hydroxy acid). Like glycolic acid, it penetrates through the epidermis and loosens desmosomes. But a special add-on it has it that it’ll dissolve pore sebum since it’s oil-soluble. It promotes skin shedding and unclogged pores. A ph of 2.1-3.0 is most common in SA lunchtime peels.
-Lactic acid 10-25%
Lactic acid is an AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) that is originally found in milk. It follows the same mechanism that enters the epidermis as other alpha hydroxy acids, but it also adds its own hydrating effect from its humectant nature. Because of that and its larger particle size, it’s gentler than SA and GA and has minimal to no downtime. Common ph balance=2.0-3.5.
Products⬇️
https://www.amazon.com/Ordinary-Pee...e2554df47220a7dfb&tag=allure0c3-20&th=1&psc=1
https://medpeel.com/products/glycol...579&gbraid=0AAAAABjPyrJZn-a8uXzLdsQh1CcPg8GfV
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F7SUHX.../anti-aging/g26857925/best-face-peel-at-home/
Medium depth
These range from penetrating the lower epidermis to the upper dermal layer (papillary dermis)
Common key ingredients:
-TCA (trichloroacetic acid) 20-35%
This is neither an AHA or BHA and is stronger. It goes and penetrates through the epidermal-upper dermal layer and breaks up the proteins. The new dead skin cells will gradually peel off after a number of days. TCA boosts collagen and elasticity by stimulating fibroblasts and signaling the skin to repair and rebuild. Sometimes TCA is referred to as “chemical sandblaster”.
-Glycolic acid 50-70%
As spoken about earlier, this is a small molecular AHA. It normally can’t reach the dermis because of its water solubility, but it can cross through the full epidermis to the papillary dermis at high percentages. Because it won’t really penetrate the dermis, it doesn’t promote much collagen synthesis but it will majorly increase epidermal turnover.
Compound/s:
-Jessners solution
This solution combines 14% salicylic acid, 14% lactic acid, and 14% resorcinol. It’s a medium depth chemical peel applied in layers. According to this study, using this as a pretreatment before adding TCA allows for deeper penetration.
https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC6571353/
Products ⬇️
https://medpeel.com/pages/jessner-p...GnbyhVRxtcaNMxrQ115dk-AWh9nJuCx8Mz0hxir2_dtj9
https://perfectimage.com/products/t...3hhtpaZCdWAKWTh3sfHJQ8Xxv5zQIG93yo8l5s4VEyDN3
https://perfectimage.com/products/g...406&gbraid=0AAAAADto4GGjb58ZCsPC1YTp7BcOVLu2X
Deep
On the deep side, they can penetrate the papillary dermis down to the reticular dermis.
Common key ingredients:
-TCA 40-50%
By using its protein breaking mechanism, it will force out any dead skin cells on the face. This is rarely used at 40-50% for a full deep peel because of the high risk of severe scarring and its unpredictability. Instead, it’s usually used gradually with layering lower percentages like 20-30%.
-Carbolic acid aka the PHENOL PEEL👿
This is the final boss of ALL chemical peels. Probably one of the most brutal, painful looking treatments I’ve ever seen. It’s so intense that they need to put you under anesthesia, and if done incorrectly it can be fatal. The phenol (carbolic acid) penetrates into the dermal layer and breaks up proteins (similar to the mechanism of TCA), which signals a strong healing response in the skin. It reaches the reticular dermal layer, causing aggressive collagen production. A huge effect is that this peel will cause permanent skin lightening on the face, since it destroys the epidermis which is where melanocytes are stored. The number of melanocytes in your face will permanently decrease. This is why phenol peels are NOT meant for darker skinned people.
There are different variations of phenol peels. The most common used today is the Hetter formulation, which combines phenol and croton oil. But it is a less aggressive more controlled version of the traditional Baker Gordon formula, which does the same thing.
And obviously you can’t do this one at home, so I’ve got nothing to list that you can buy.
DIY process if you order a peel:
4. Depending on the kind of peel you are using, you are most likely gonna want to reapply it. Wait 5 mins (it depends how strong the peel is) in between applying each layer. Do not panic if you see any frosting.
5. Rub the peeling off the face with water/ a cold soaked towel for neutralization when done (stopping the chemical reaction).
6. Estheticians will apply protective gentle agents to the skin after the peel, to hydrate and soothe the sensitive skin barrier. Creams including ingredients like panthenol, hyaluronic acid, aloe Vera and more will help soothe the skin after. I’m pretty sure they sell creams online specifically designed for post peel protection. Do not forget to also apply SPF.
Thanks for reading 🥰
@ecoli @vampi
What are they?
A chemical peel is a cosmetic treatment where they use an acidic solution on your face, and it penetrates through the skin barrier, shedding dead skin cells and regenerating skin. The name is a bit scary, but these are game changers for your skin. There are many different kinds of chemical peels, ranging from superficial to deep.
How do they work?
These peels work by penetrating through the skin and causing a “controlled injury” type mechanism. It’ll signal a healing response in the skin that causes regeneration and rejuvenation.
Frosting 🧁 ❄️
After applying a chemical peel, your skin is usually left with some temporary whitening, due to the denaturing proteins. This is a clear indicator of how deep the chemical peel is affecting the skin. There are varying degrees of frosting. The stronger/deeper the peel, the whiter the skin will be. This effect differs for everyone.
Frosting levels ❄️
Level 1
Superficial peels can make your face slightly white/patchy.
Level 2
A medium depth peel will cause a more frosted, chalky, white look.
Level 3
A deep peel displays as a thick white or greyish white.
Important PSAs
- for my darker skinned individuals, you guys must be very careful when it comes to chemical peels. The more melanin your skin has, the greater the risk of PIH (post inflammatory hyperpigmentation). Deeper peels are not at all recommended for melanin rich skin, so stick to gentle superficial peels (even those can carry risks). Doing a test patch is suggested so you can see how your skin reacts first.
- Before getting chemical peels done, doctors will prescribe you with pretreatments to help prep the skin for the peel. Using melanin inhibitors like hydroquinone, niacinamide, alpha arbutin and more are suggested to use up to two weeks before the peel so your melanocytes wont respond to the injury trigger. Avoid exfoliating your skin before the peel and wear sun protection. Don’t use any strong products or anything, you want to cleanse your skin properly but with incredibly gentle low concentration products.
- a random fact is that it’s better to get it done in the winter. Your newly exposed skin will be very sensitive to the sun, so during winter it’s best because of the reduced uv ray intensity.
- When it comes to lighter/superficial peels, you usually get them done multiple times. Every 2-5 weeks.
List of least to most severe peels ⬇️
Superficial, medial, deep
Superficial aka “lunchtime” peels
These peels are on the gentler side, and penetrate the epidermis.
Common key ingredients:
-Glycolic acid 30-50%
This is an AHA (alpha hydroxy acid), and it’s the one with the smallest particle size, so it penetrates your epidermis the quickest/easiest. GAs acidic nature weakens the desmosomes between dead skin cells, causing desquamation and cell turnover. The more acidic its ph is, the more intense its effects are. A balance of 3.5-4.0 is recommended for a GA lunchtime peel.
-Salicylic acid 20-30%
This is a BHA (beta hydroxy acid). Like glycolic acid, it penetrates through the epidermis and loosens desmosomes. But a special add-on it has it that it’ll dissolve pore sebum since it’s oil-soluble. It promotes skin shedding and unclogged pores. A ph of 2.1-3.0 is most common in SA lunchtime peels.
-Lactic acid 10-25%
Lactic acid is an AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) that is originally found in milk. It follows the same mechanism that enters the epidermis as other alpha hydroxy acids, but it also adds its own hydrating effect from its humectant nature. Because of that and its larger particle size, it’s gentler than SA and GA and has minimal to no downtime. Common ph balance=2.0-3.5.
Products⬇️
https://www.amazon.com/Ordinary-Pee...e2554df47220a7dfb&tag=allure0c3-20&th=1&psc=1
https://medpeel.com/products/glycol...579&gbraid=0AAAAABjPyrJZn-a8uXzLdsQh1CcPg8GfV
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F7SUHX.../anti-aging/g26857925/best-face-peel-at-home/
Medium depth
These range from penetrating the lower epidermis to the upper dermal layer (papillary dermis)
Common key ingredients:
-TCA (trichloroacetic acid) 20-35%
This is neither an AHA or BHA and is stronger. It goes and penetrates through the epidermal-upper dermal layer and breaks up the proteins. The new dead skin cells will gradually peel off after a number of days. TCA boosts collagen and elasticity by stimulating fibroblasts and signaling the skin to repair and rebuild. Sometimes TCA is referred to as “chemical sandblaster”.
-Glycolic acid 50-70%
As spoken about earlier, this is a small molecular AHA. It normally can’t reach the dermis because of its water solubility, but it can cross through the full epidermis to the papillary dermis at high percentages. Because it won’t really penetrate the dermis, it doesn’t promote much collagen synthesis but it will majorly increase epidermal turnover.
Compound/s:
-Jessners solution
This solution combines 14% salicylic acid, 14% lactic acid, and 14% resorcinol. It’s a medium depth chemical peel applied in layers. According to this study, using this as a pretreatment before adding TCA allows for deeper penetration.
https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC6571353/
Products ⬇️
https://medpeel.com/pages/jessner-p...GnbyhVRxtcaNMxrQ115dk-AWh9nJuCx8Mz0hxir2_dtj9
https://perfectimage.com/products/t...3hhtpaZCdWAKWTh3sfHJQ8Xxv5zQIG93yo8l5s4VEyDN3
https://perfectimage.com/products/g...406&gbraid=0AAAAADto4GGjb58ZCsPC1YTp7BcOVLu2X
Deep
On the deep side, they can penetrate the papillary dermis down to the reticular dermis.
Common key ingredients:
-TCA 40-50%
By using its protein breaking mechanism, it will force out any dead skin cells on the face. This is rarely used at 40-50% for a full deep peel because of the high risk of severe scarring and its unpredictability. Instead, it’s usually used gradually with layering lower percentages like 20-30%.
-Carbolic acid aka the PHENOL PEEL👿
This is the final boss of ALL chemical peels. Probably one of the most brutal, painful looking treatments I’ve ever seen. It’s so intense that they need to put you under anesthesia, and if done incorrectly it can be fatal. The phenol (carbolic acid) penetrates into the dermal layer and breaks up proteins (similar to the mechanism of TCA), which signals a strong healing response in the skin. It reaches the reticular dermal layer, causing aggressive collagen production. A huge effect is that this peel will cause permanent skin lightening on the face, since it destroys the epidermis which is where melanocytes are stored. The number of melanocytes in your face will permanently decrease. This is why phenol peels are NOT meant for darker skinned people.
There are different variations of phenol peels. The most common used today is the Hetter formulation, which combines phenol and croton oil. But it is a less aggressive more controlled version of the traditional Baker Gordon formula, which does the same thing.
And obviously you can’t do this one at home, so I’ve got nothing to list that you can buy.
DIY process if you order a peel:
- The first step estheticians use is to cleanse your face. Any build up will block the treatment, causing uneven inefficient results. Double cleansing the skin and/or using alcohol wipes works.
- look for sensitive marks. This step is to ensure protection of sensitive areas. Apply barrier ointment to these areas (Vaseline or Aquafor work).
- Apply the acid using gauze or a cotton swab (make sure to wring it out cause you don’t want it dripping). People usally paint the face with the acid in horizontal lines. Use firm pressure.
4. Depending on the kind of peel you are using, you are most likely gonna want to reapply it. Wait 5 mins (it depends how strong the peel is) in between applying each layer. Do not panic if you see any frosting.
5. Rub the peeling off the face with water/ a cold soaked towel for neutralization when done (stopping the chemical reaction).
6. Estheticians will apply protective gentle agents to the skin after the peel, to hydrate and soothe the sensitive skin barrier. Creams including ingredients like panthenol, hyaluronic acid, aloe Vera and more will help soothe the skin after. I’m pretty sure they sell creams online specifically designed for post peel protection. Do not forget to also apply SPF.
Thanks for reading 🥰
@ecoli @vampi